Welcome back to my day-by-day breakdown of the 2023 edition of The COUTURE Show, which recently returned to the Wynn Convention Center.  As my notes were more comprehensive on Day 4, I have broken out each of the designers with whom I met—Arunashi, Goshwara, Karen Suen Fine Jewellery, Bayco, and Assael—into their own article.  Enjoy!  Next up: GOSHWARA!

Sunday, June 04: Day 4 (1pm – 6pm)

While It is unescapably accurate that the role of colored gemstones and minerals, as well as colored alloys, and techniques such as enameling, have become increasingly more prominent in jewelry design as people become more concerned with expressing their own personalities and individuality than in years past; it always amuses me when I learn that another editor has come away from COUTURE declaring that “Color” is a hot trend.   

Besides the fact that colorless diamonds are always going to be in style—certainly, if DeBeers has anything to do with it, and especially with the rise in high-quality lab-grown diamonds—you’d have to have a heckuva lotta nerve (and be ignorant af!) to walk up to anyone affiliated with any the five acclaimed jewelry houses I met with on the last day of COUTURE 2023, look them in the eye and tell them, with a straight face, that color is new, is back, is a trend, or is anything other than one of the pillars upon which they (and in many cases, previous generations of their families) have built their respective companies. 

Anyhow, now that I’ve gotten that off my chest, let’s get to it!

GOSHWARAWhen it comes to Goshwara—whether the customer; its savvy founder, Sweta Jain; or Jain’s designs, which are at once empowering, bold, curvy, edgy, and saturated with color, giving all of her collections a sense of sophisticated wearability—‘smart’ is always one of the first words that come to my mind.

This year Jain’s cavalcade of big, bright, and juicy colored gemstones continued, with some new takes on old favorites—like the ‘Innate’ Abalone Oval Earrings with Tsavorite in 18K Gold and the cool, disco-fabulous ‘Queen’ Enamel Earrings with Diamonds in 18K Gold—as well as some new shining stars among her luxe ‘G-One’ collection.  Among these new friends are a pair of 18K gold figural ‘elephant’ brooches that double as pendants—one paved with 3.51cts of white sapphires, with gold tusks and onyx eyes; and the other speckled with 3.23cts of multicolored sapphires and 0.15cts of diamonds, with onyx tusks and eyes—that are kinda perfect for any number of occasions, or just as a cool piece that goes with everything.

The fabulously smooth 'G-One’' Four Strand Sapphire Tumbled Bead Necklace with Emerald and Pave Diamonds in 18K White Gold left an impression, as it positively begged to be touched, and felt so good against the skin; and it became immediately apparent why the fabulous 'G-One' Fancy Golden Rutilated Quartz Pendant With Diamonds in 18K Yellow Gold—a fabulously bold shield-cut golden rutilated quartz of 67.83cts in an 18K gold frame and bail set with 1.02cts of diamonds—came to be referred to as ‘the Superman Pendant’ around the Goshwara atelier.

Looking back, it was three pairs of earrings from the ‘G-One’ range—as varied as Jain’s numerous interests, which include photography, art, and aviation (she’s a certified pilot!)—that really piqued my interest.  The 'G-One' Chandelier Earrings with Carved Emerald ‘Flowers’ and Marquise-Shaped Carved Jade in 18K Yellow Gold are an extension of a favorite earring story of Goshwara’s, and feature 44.08cts of carved jade, 13.30cts of emerald, and 1.30cts of diamonds.  The 'G-One' Three-Tiered Reverse-Set Tsavorite Earrings in 18K White Gold & Black Rhodium feature 28.45cts of reverse-set tsavorite garnets set in three balls of 18K white gold and black rhodium that increase in size from top to bottom, and are fierce, fabulous, and empowering.  Finally, the 'G-One' Figural ‘Flower’ Sapphire Earrings with Diamonds in 18K Yellow Gold—with ten smooth, transparent, deep-blue sapphires comprising the ‘petals’—make a boldly feminine statement with sapphires (30.00tcw!!!) and diamonds (2.60tcw) set in carved 18K gold.

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