I’m not a fan of the term “perfect,” because no matter what the situation, there is invariably something that could have been done better.  Yet it does happen (albeit rarely) when I experience something presented without a single misstep.  Which is precisely what happened recently when a friend joined me for dinner at Sartiano’s Italian Steakhouse at Wynn Las Vegas.

Wynn Design & Development has transformed what was previously the Wynn Country Club into a Milanese mid-century modern retreat that welcomes with a sense of contemporary continental flair.  Though, as anyone who has dined in a room designed by WDD’s President/Chief Creative Officer Todd-Avery Lenahan can attest, as spectacular as it invariably is upon entering, it’s the subtle vagaries that seep peripherally into your consciousness throughout your meal—repeating vaults that seemingly spring from behind the upholstered booths across the breadth of the ceiling, the juxtaposing of classical materials and contemporary detailing, the cozy vibes and flattering lighting story, and the tall reeded glass doors that give way to the shaded patio overlooking the waterfall on the 18th hole of the Wynn Golf Club—that really make it pop.

And hats off to HR, because our server, Curtis, was charming, knew the menu inside and out, and served handily as a de facto tour guide to two intrepid (if a bit fussy) epicurean explorers setting off on an adventure. 

We began with the Little Gem Caesar with Aged Parmigiano and Breadcrumbs and the Meatballs Pomodoro with Parmigiana Fonduta.  Thanks to the light hand with which the dressing was applied, the salad was crisp, fresh, and flavorful.  As for the meatballs, they were great, with just enough cheese to give them some zip, but not so much that the cheese pulled focus from the meatballs.

Now, I’m all about the “when in Rome” aspect of dining, so it was a given that we would order the Fettuccini Alfredo alla Romana.  As the specialità della casa, a case could be made that the dish takes its name from Sartiano’s three-time James Beard Award-winning, Michelin-starred culinary director, Chef Alfred Portale, and that case would have merit.  In actuality, though, it is named for Alfredo Di Lelio, who first cooked his fettuccini al triplo burro (“fettuccini with triple butter,” which became fettuccini all’Alfredo and, finally, Fettuccini Alfredo) around 1907 or 1908.  The dish and its originator became so renowned that in the 1920s, after enjoying his hospitality, the American actors Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks (aka the king and queen of Hollywood) presented Di Lelio with a golden serving spoon and fork engraved with the inscription, “To Alfredo: the King of the Noodles,” which thereafter he used to prepare his namesake dish.

At Sartiano’s, while the Fettuccini Alfredo alla Romana is not prepared with golden utensils, it is expertly prepared tableside, making it rather akin to dinner-and-a-show.  Better still, we were able to get ours made with an obscene amount of shaved Burgundy Summer Truffles imported from Umbria, which are available seasonally.  [See video, below] *

As our entrées, we opted for the 14 oz. Bone-in Filet Mignon and the Fusilli with Wagyu Beef Ragù, Garlic Butter, and Pangrattato.  I don’t tend to eat a lot of steak when I’m out, because I find most filets kind of bland, but I get irritated by ribeyes and other heavily marbled cuts because they are too chewy and get stuck between my teeth.  The 14oz. Bone-In Filet Mignon—from Nebraska’s Schuyler Ranch, which is known for its tender, premium cuts—proved to be a happy hybrid, with the tenderness of a filet but loads more flavor.  Also, once you eliminate the bone, you’re left with what is essentially an incredibly flavorful petit-filet, perfect for one person.

I realize that following the fettuccini with the fusilli might seem like a culinary redundancy, but having previously enjoyed it in the Grill Room at Zero Bond (which shares with Sartiano’s both a kitchen and the talented, Las Vegas-born-and-raised Executive Chef Michael Rubinstein), the fusilli was already a favorite of mine, and I knew before I’d even had a chance to look at the menu, that—since photos are verboden at Zero Bond—I was gonna relish talking about this pasta in the context of Sartiano’s.  At its core, the fusilli is a highly elevated take on a bolognese, only far more special and infinitely richer (we see you, wagyu beef ragù!).  Best of all, since I’d already gorged myself on the fettuccini, I was able to take home half of my fusilli, which was so good when I ate it straight out of its to-go container at 4 AM, that I'm half-inclined to advise you to do the same.

Finally, it was time for dessert, and while I’m usually out of breath (and real estate in my stomach) around this time of a big meal, I knew I had to persevere, because Chef Jennifer Yee (Executive Pastry Chef, Wynn Las Vegas) does not mess around, and the two desserts we enjoyed proved to be delicious evidence of this.  First up: The light and lovely Lemon Fantasy Semifreddo with Chiffon Sponge, Lemon Curd, and Limoncello Cream.  I find that many citrus-forward desserts (especially those of the lemon variety) tend to either be too tart or, having overcompensated for the tartness by adding too much sugar, so sweet that you can feel the enamel eroding off your teeth.  But Yee is a master of balance, and this chilled lemon dessert (like a frozen mousse) is quite Goldilocksian, in that being neither too bitter nor too sweet, it is just right.

And then there’s the Butterscotch Budino.  Another favorite, this dessert has spawned a cult following among a certain clique of Zero Bond members (known as the “Budino Buddies”) who you’re likely to find enjoying a budino-nightcap at the bar a couple of nights each week.  Seriously.  It’s a thing.  (IYKYK, and now you do!)  And, since it’s on the menu at Sartiano’s, I’m psyched to tell you more about it.  Butterscotch might bring to mind the hard candies you’d find in your great-aunt’s purse, and can be so bitter it borders on the medicinal, but prepared à la Chef Yee, the Butterscotch Budino is a beautiful, layered dessert that’s been whipped into a rich, velvety pudding, topped first with heavy whipped cream, and then with a layer of candied pecans that provide just the right counterbalance of sweet, crunchy texture. **

So, was it a perfect meal?  As I’m not a Sith Lord, I don’t deal in absolutes, but seeing as this meal was as good as it gets, that made it pretty perfect in my book.  So, whether you’re looking for a lovely setting for a business dinner or an evening with friends, a beautiful spot for a date night, or even a discreet location for some low-key canoodling, check out Sartiano’s Italian Steakhouse.  And whatever you do, don’t skip dessert!

Sartiano’s Italian Steakhouse
Wynn Las Vegas
Click HERE for info and reservations

Get into it!
#Sartianos

[Editor’s Note: * At first glance, the Fettuccini Alfredo alla Romano may seem to be a bit decadent and on the pricey side, but when you break it down and realize that you’re actually getting two entrée-sized portions of pasta, it’s not nearly as spendy as you might initially have thought. // ** Thanks to Dawn Mack, the original “Budino Buddy,” for blazing the trail!]