I remember once, when I was little, my mother and grandmother had a discussion where the topic turned to jewelry. My grandmother said something to the effect that one’s jewelry should be kept at the bank for that proverbial rainy day, to which my mom quipped, “Mother, we live in Seattle. It rains four days a week. What the f*ck are you waiting for?” Being my mother’s child, in addition to a love for well-placed profanities, I’ve always felt that jewelry was meant to be worn. Keeping it in a safe all the time doesn’t allow a jewel to fulfill its raison d’etre. Sweta Jain, the founder of New York-based jewelry brand Goshwara (and a fan of my mother’s), is also a proud adherent to this philosophy.
Sweta’s personal sense of style comes through in each of her designs: They are bold yet inherently feminine, with clean lines, and are very stone-centric (by which I mean that she lets the stone dictate its setting, and not the other way around). Sure, many pieces will use diamonds as accents—a diamond halo, here; a paved bale or cap, there—but Goshwara will never be anyone’s go-to for a gemstone swimming in a sea of pave diamonds: That’s just not her jam.
What is her jam is what industry icon Beth Anne Bonanno refers to as “juicy” stones. Gaze upon the Cabochon Mandarin Garnet Ring from Goshwara’s “G-One” Collection of unique and one-of-a-kind pieces. It’s as though an alchemist had transmuted the juice of a mandarin orange into solid matter. I defy anyone to be in a bad mood with that dome of sunshiny goodness on their finger. Likewise, the "G-One" Pink Tourmaline Ring beckons like a Barbie® Dream Ring.
According to Amie Guarino (Director of Merchandising, Louis Anthony Jewelers), Jain’s “ability to ignore what’s necessarily trending” makes her stand out as a designer. “Nothing is ever her version of what other designers are doing: It's just hers. Period.”
One of Jain’s greatest skills is using semi-precious stones in a manner usually reserved for precious stones, as exemplified by her nonpareil use of rock crystal, moon quartz, and golden rutilated quartz. Whether the Cushion-cut Rock Crystal Earrings with Diamond Motifs from the “Gossip” Collection (as seen on Kylie Jenner) or the limited edition Golden Rutilated Trillion Flower Earrings, they are so elevated, and—because Goshwara sources, cuts, and sets all the stones, themselves—priced so sensibly, that they read as far more expensive than they cost. To wit, there have been many times, over the years, at The COUTURE Show when I’ve had to interrupt Sweta and confirm that the price of a particular jewel I’m examining is retail and not wholesale. This commitment to value and wearability endears Goshwara to customers and stockists alike.
Guarino describes this Goshwara customer as someone who “appreciates the functional elements of design combined with precious and unique colored stones and is willing to explore color in a way that is not typical.”
Jain’s love of opals is evident throughout the collections, whether Ethiopian opals—as evidenced by the 18-Strand Tassel of Round Black Ethiopian Opals from the “Beyond” Collection (a personal favorite) and the “G-One” Cabochon-cut Black Ethiopian Opal Ring that positively pops in its setting of light black rhodium over 18K white gold—or boulder opals, like in the daring yet elegant “G-One” Boulder Opal Earrings with Diamonds.
Goshwara’s clean lines are timeless and always stylish. Even pieces centered on the carved stones with which Jain is so fascinated—the “G-One” Emerald Tassel Earrings, in which the tassels of emeralds are suspended from larger emeralds carved with a floral motif, for instance—feature a particularly clean and straightforward aesthetic. There’s nothing froofy, goopy, or overly ornate here.
Sophisticated wearability, designed with skillful use of color and proportion, and just a hint of attitude. In a word: Goshwara.
Goshwara
New York, NY
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