Recently, while on a trip to New York, after walking-out of an off-Broadway show, at Intermission*, I looked at my friend Bill, and said “Let’s just go to Odeon.”  And, after hailing a cab, in Times Square, we were off to TriBeCa.

While I hadn’t eaten there in nearly a decade, I was delighted to find that the food and service, at The Odeon, were still fantastic.  The hostess greeted us with a smile, and thanked me for calling ahead; while our waiter, Michael, was convivial and ably steered me toward a starter (Spicy Chicken Dumplings with Bleu Cheese Dipping-Sauce) and entrée (All-Natural NY Strip Steak Frites with Roasted Garlic-Butter) that hit the proverbial spot. 

A couple of nights later, after paying witness to Audra McDonald utterly transform into the embodiment of Billie Holiday, in her much-deserved Tony-winning role, in Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar and Grill*; my friend Chris and I met-up with our comrades, Rachel and Spencer, for a late-supper at Shun Lee West, opposite Lincoln Center.

The Hacked Chicken was every bit as scrumptious as it was when I was growing-up on the Upper East Side, in the New York of the early ‘80s, and the Hot & Sour Soup had just the right vinegary twang.  The Chicken with Three Different Nuts was a savory delight, and the Grand Marnier Prawns as plump and succulent as could be.  And when I awoke, the next day, my trio of leftover Moo Shu Pork pancakes made for a “Breakfast of Champions” with a distinctly New York flair.

Now, I know what you’re thinking…  “Shulman – with all the new restaurants opening in New York, all the time, why are you so intent on reporting about places you’ve been, a dozen times, before?”

I’m glad you asked, and I’ll tell you why.  All it takes to open a restaurant, these days, is money (granted, it’s a lot of money, but it’s still just money, all the same).  But, opening a restaurant, and KEEPING it open – not just for years, but for decades (Keith McNally opened Odeon in 1980, while Michael Tong and Chef T.T. Wang opened Shun Lee Palace in 1971, and its West Side outpost ten years later), while neither sacrificing quality nor succumbing to tourist-luring gimmickry?  That, my dear reader – that impresses the bejeezus outta me.

So, is it any wonder then, that when visiting my favorite of cities, that I will invariably dine at some combination of Balthazar, Demarchelier, Il Cantinore, Indochine, Mr. Chow, Scalinatella, and the two fabulous restaurants I’ve discussed, above?  Not if you know me: Not one bit.

New York Dining
Odeon – Click HERE for info
Shun Lee West – Click HERE for info

Get into it!

*more on this, in an upcoming essay…  Stay tuned!

The world’s greatest hip-hop collective returns this weekend with the second edition of the history-making WU-TANG CLAN: THE SAGA CONTINUES… THE LAS VEGAS RESIDENCY