Recently, on a brisk Las Vegas evening, I found myself milling about the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Palazzo, for the annual VEGAS Gives event; but after an hour, it was time to move on.  So, I grabbed my go-to plus-one, the vivacious Dawn Hume; and headed downstairs, and over to the Press Dinner, taking place on The Venetian’s Restaurant Row, at the newly-opened SUGARCANE Raw Bar Grill, in the space formerly occupied by the late, great V Bar.

Because we had been so busy socializing, upstairs; we missed the first course (“Crudos”).  But the first course had been accompanied by the Spice of Love, a zesty cocktail with Grey Goose vodka, passion fruit purée, mango purée, and fresh jalapeño; and we made it, in time for those.

Next came the second course (“Small Plates”): Brussel Sprouts (with orange and sweet soy), Bacon-wrapped Dates (with linguiça and manchego), Goat Cheese Croquettes (with membrillo marmalade), and Pig Ear Pad Thai (with papaya salad), with the Strawberry Balsamic (with Tito’s vodka, lime juice, maple syrup, balsamic vinegar, and fresh strawberries).  The croquettes were my favorite from this flight, followed by the Pad Thai.

The third course (“Open Fire Grill”) was next, and really shined a light on Chef Timon Balloo’s masterful grillwork.  There was Kalbi Short Ribs (Korean-style), and Spanish Octopus (with aji panca), and Asparagus (with lemon aioli and mint gremolata).  Now, I’m gonna say something here, and Dawn can back me up…  The asparagus was fantastic!  Yes.  You read that right – I enjoyed a vegetable dish.  Well, a couple, actually; if you count the Brussel Sprouts (which I accidentally ate, mistaking them – in the dimly lit private dining room – for the Pad Thai).  Also, that octopus was no joke.  But the headline was about to be presented to us, and we were not ready.

Back in the late ‘90s, Debra Messing (in character as ‘Grace Adler’ on NBC’s Will & Grace), declared “Jews and chicken: It’s real, and it’s deep,” and I could not agree more.  So, I was somewhat taken aback, when the next course (“Large Plates”) was presented, and it consisted of large dishes of Whole Roasted Chicken (with truffle marble potatoes and wild mushrooms).  And it wasn’t just chicken, but turned-out to be one of the most moist and succulent roasted chickens that I’ve ever had the good fortune to consume.  I’d say it was just like Grandma’s; but that’d be doing this chicken a major disservice.

Now, while stuffing my face with the chicken, Chef Balloo came into the private dining room, to personally present his spin on a soul-food fave – Fried Duck and Waffles (with crispy leg confit, fried duck egg, and mustard maple syrup) – and boy, does he have it down!

Finally, it was time for dessert.  Just so you know, I was so full, I felt like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life, but for you, dear reader, no amount of minor discomfort would prevent me from intrepidly exploring the flavors coming out of these new kitchens, on your behalf.  So, with as much excitement as I could muster, I dove into the Sesame Bombe (sesame sponge cake, vanilla meringue, and black sesame sauce) and the Torrejas (with caramelized apples, maple butter, and cinnamon ice cream).  The bombe was pretty good, but the torrejas was great!  And for those of you who don’t know – if you made a Venn diagram (in your mind) of apple brown betty and French toast, torrejas is what you’d find in the delicious common area. 

I’ll leave you with these words from Chef Balloo, who told me that “In terms of the menu, opening in Las Vegas has been a great opportunity to rejuvenate our dishes, and really hone-in on the elements that have made us successful, in Miami.  It’s a great match – the energy of Las Vegas coincides perfectly with our bright, bold, and exciting culinary experience.”  Thanks, Chef!  ¡Bienvenido a la Fabulosa Las Vegas!

SUGARCANE Raw Bar Grill
Restaurant Row | The Venetian
Click HERE for info

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