Written about by Roman scholar Pliny the Elder; the famous gold death-mask of Tutankhamun was inlaid with it.  Used in some of the world’s most famous buildings (i.e., the Taj Mahal and the Dome of the Rock); it was a favorite of the Aztecs and Anasazi, alike.  According to the Hindus, it could open the chakras; while in the Old Testament, it is listed as one of the twelve stones, on the Hoshen (the holy breastplate, worn by Moses’ brother, Aaron, the High Priest of the Israelites).  What is it?  Why, turquoise, of course!

Long looked down upon, in high fashion and fine jewelry circles, as a lesser mineral, turquoise is experiencing a renaissance not seen since the ‘70s, and prior to that, the Egyptian Revival movement of the 1920s.  As such, it’s not surprising to come across the much sought-after sky-blue matrix-free turquoise from Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty Mine fetching astronomical prices.  Case in point, the Precious Jewels Salon at Neiman Marcus in St. Louis is currently showing a $110,000 strand of high-gloss 14-27mm graduated turquoise beads, that was painstakingly assembled by Philadelphia-based jeweler, Paul Morelli.

Recently, at Wynn Las Vegas, for the 2013 Couture Show; turquoise was all the rage with Italian designers such as Amedeo, Chantecler, and Faraone Mennella R.F.M.A.S.; as well as with Turkish goldsmith Gurhan; and such innovative Americans as K. Brunini Jewels, Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry, Pamela Huizenga Jewelry, and 2013 Couture Design Awards finalist (in two categories) Victor Velyan.  Even renowned purveyor of collectable jewelry, Fred Leighton, devoted an entire shelf to “important” turquoise pieces, from the mid- to late-20th century.

Across the Pond, establishment joillerie house Van Cleef & Arpels continues to forge ahead with turquoise as a key stone, in its "Alhambra" collection; while at Basel World, those debonair Danes from Shamballa Jewels were showing turquoise from the Southwest (light blue, without a matrix) and the Far East (greenish-blue, with a matrix)., in their oft-copied macramé bracelets. 

Following are the designers, details, descriptions, and prices of the pieces in the above collage; clockwise from the top-left:

1.  AMEDEO – Turquoise “snake” cameo set in a ring of 18kt gold, with scale-detail, and black sapphires.  ($2,670)

2.  CHANTECLER – “Cherie” asymmetrical necklace with tassel, consisting of 166.50g of A-grade turquoise beads, 23.00g of 18kt white gold, and 7.63cts of diamonds. ($40,960)

3.  PAMELA HUIZENGA JEWELRY – North American turquoise set in a handmade pendant of 18kt gold, with full-cut white diamonds and rose-cut natural-color black diamonds.  Approx. 3” long with enhancer bale ($19,000)

4.  M.C.L. BY MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA – Necklace of turquoise beads featuring an off-shaped ball clasp of sterling silver, pavé-set with 7.70cts of fancy multicolored sapphires. ($930)

5.  K. BRUNINI JEWELS – One of a kind “Objects Organique” ring with a cabochon turquoise set in sterling silver, featuring 18kt yellow gold antlers, and 2.00cts of rubies. ($42,000)

6.  VICTOR VELYAN – Bracelet of sterling silver and 24kt gold set with 7.67cts of cabochon turquoise and 0.27cts diamonds. ($12,760)

7.  FARAONE MENNELLA R.F.M.A.S. – Turquoise and diamond 18kt gold hoop earrings ($3,000)

8.  VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – “Lucky Alhambra” ring with turquoise "butterfly" and mother of pearl "clover" set in 18kt white gold. ($7,800)

9.  PAMELA FROMAN FINE JEWELRY – “Scroll Crush Cap” earrings of 18kt crushed gold with smooth marquise turquoise briolettes, set with a diamond in the curl of each scroll.  ($2,350)

10. GURHAN – One of a kind 20-strand necklace of cabochon turquoise beads, with sterling silver hooks and 24kt gold “S” clasp.  ($2,325)

11. SHAMBALLA JEWELS – Hand-braided macramé bracelet set with A-grade turquoise beads and an 18kt white gold pavé diamond bead, with a “Star of Shamballa” lock of 18kt white gold with a diamond, and two diamond-studded 18kt white gold toggle balls ($14,430)

Turquoise
The Couture Show – 2013
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