These days, people toss-around the word “cult” as casually as you might toss your keys into a dish on the credenza in your foyer.  But the slavish adoration with which people speak about Other Mama, is worthy of the appellation.  To wit, it’s the only restaurant that comes to mind, where peoples’ response to hearing that I’d never eaten there, has been one of anger. 

So, when restaurateur Elizabeth Blau invited me to join her, on March 7th, for Chef Daniel Krohmer’s Other Mama takeover of Honey Salt (the latest instalment of the latter’s ongoing Guest Chef Dinner Series); I thought it was the ideal time to find-out what was behind all the hubbub.

And what it’s about is a masterful use of flavor and texture (with a nod toward Asian gastronomy), that results in an indisputable deliciousness.

The evening began with a welcome cocktail, the Sadoko (with Japanese whiskey, Aperol, Lemon, and Amaro), followed by a trio of shared appetizers.  First was the Salmon Tartare (on Waffle Fries); followed by the Kabocha Pancake (with Crème Fraiche and Salmon Roe) – both of which were great tools, wielded by Krohmer, to get those of us who’d assembled at Honey Salt, into the Other Mama groove.

The third of the appetizers, and my favorite, was the Chicken-Fried Kobe Beef (topped with a Truffle-Mushroom Gravy).  So much going on, and all on one skewer!  These combined the very best of high cuisine (Truffles!  Kobe beef!), and low (Deep fried!  Gravy!), brought together in one savory bite-sized morsel.  In a word: Sublime.

The first of the two mains performed this trick, as well; but in a different manner.  The Tonnato Salad (with Shaved Utah Pork and Bitter Greens, in a Tarragon Vinaigrette) took a popular Piedmontese dish (Vitello Tonnato) and deftly Americanized it, with fantastic results.  Once I’d wolfed mine down, I told Chef Dan that in my opinion, his Tonnato Salad would make for one heckuva sandwich.  He laughed, then pondered a moment, then raised a brow, cocked his head to one side, and nodded in agreement.

Part two of the main course consisted of a Spicy Seafood Stew (with Shishito Peppers, Fennel Miso-Tomato Broth, and a pair of Johnny Cakes).  My usual complaint with any seafood stew (whether cioppino or bouillabaisse) is my general dislike of anything too mushy.  But herein, Krohmer kept his ingredients firm, and thus, kept me onboard for the duration of our culinary journey.  Also, I’m a sucker for a shishito pepper, in any circumstance.

Finally, it was time for dessert, and Chef Dan didn’t disappoint.  The Poached Pear Crostada (with Shio Koji Ice Cream) took a classic Italian pastry (the crostata can be found in Neapolitan cookbooks, dating back to the mid-15th century), and combined it with an ice cream flavored with Shio Koji (the centuries-old Japanese mixture of malted rice (koji), salt (shio), and water, that’s become all the rage, due to the increased popularity of fermented foods).  My first taste of the ice cream took me unawares, as I experienced a sweet fruitiness, but also something my taste-buds found somewhat jarring.  But, when I paired it with the poached pears in the crostada, my buds got onboard, tout de suite!

Other Mama | Chef Dan Krohmer
Honey Salt | Guest Chef Dinner Series
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