Last night, after Jimmy James’ triumphant performance at the Starbright Theater, my friends Sean and Phillip asked if I’d like to join them for dinner, at Andiron Steak & Sea – the new restaurant in Downtown Summerlin, from restaurateurs Elizabeth Blau & Chef Kim Canteenwalla.  As I hadn’t been back since DJing at Andiron’s grand opening, and had been meaning to return; I immediately replied in the affirmative. 

We arrived and found the restaurant positively brimming with a very inviting energy, and full of smiling people (both staff and patrons).  The lighting story was warm and flattering, and people were dressed as one would expect at an upscale suburban hotspot.  The staff was courteous and knew the menu inside and out.  And from the moment we were seated, each of us was delighted with our decision.  Actually, Phil was the first to break a smile, almost immediately upon cracking the menu, when he read that the house signature cocktail – the Andiron Martini – was made with his favorite vodka (Elit by Stolichnaya), some Vittone Bianco Vermouth, and stuffed olives. 

Admittedly, we went a bit hog-wild with our ordering (I was so full, upon leaving, that I was forced to do so, hunched over at the waist), but it was so damned good, none of us minded.  We immediately placed our drink order with a trio of appetizers – including the Steak Tartare (grass fed tenderloin, capers, Dijon mustard, quail egg, grilled bread), Tater Tots (childhood memories, house ketchup), and the brilliant Mac & Cheese Waffle (parmesan crust, cheese sauce).

Gleefully stuffing our respective faces with our apps, we decided to order a round of starters – the Classic French Onion Soup (Gruyère and parmesan cheese, sherry wine) and a pair of Little Gem Lettuce salads (Maytag blue cheese, vine ripe tomatoes, maple-glazed thick-cut bacon), while still debating the entrees.

Our decisions made and confirmed with our team of servers, we continued eating our way to bliss (with a quick angioplasty detour).  And when our main courses were presented, they were exactly as hoped.  For Phil, this was a pairing of the Wagyu Burger (wood fired, beehive cheddar, smoked beefsteak tomatoes, caramelized onions) and Twice Baked Loaded Potato (bacon and beehive smoked cheddar).  Sean opted for the 10oz Strauss Grass-Fed Filet with Andiron Steak Sauce and a complement of Alaskan King Crab.  And me – I went off-script and ordered the Creekstone Heritage Pork Schnitzel (mustard spätzle, red wine cabbage).  Sean suggested we get a vegetable, so I’d ordered the Kennebec Hand-cut Fries (smoked tomato aioli); but I guess that wasn’t what he had in mind, as he then ordered the Creamed Spinach (parmesan cheese, crispy onion).  Different strokes, and all that…

I think it was Linus, in a Peanuts comic strip, who once said “The proof of the pudding is under the crust.”  Well, in the case of Andiron, the proof is friggin’ delicious!  My schnitzel was light and crispy, Sean’s filet was cooked and seasoned to perfection, and Phil’s burger was scrumptious, and the soup was a rich and cheesy liquid dream.  But we weren’t done, yet.

For dessert I picked the Brown Butter Lemon Pie (toasted key lime meringue, candied lime), and the Apple Tarte Tatin (sweet cider glaze, sweet cream ice cream).  Never, even while living in France, have I tasted such a marvelous Tarte Tatin.  It was perfect; each bite a juice-filled, buttery revelation.  And the Lemon Pie was a confectionary synergy of sweet and tart, neither sensation too overpowering, but rather enhancing and elevating each other.

This was that wonderful (and sadly, all too rare) meal where not a single dish was a misstep; where everything from the lighting to the conversation to the attitude of the staff – and especially the food – just hit all the right notes, resulting in an absolutely sublime dinner.

Andiron Steak & Sea
Downtown Summerlin
Click HERE for info

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